Cruise Through Santa Fe County on Fabled Route 66

In his novel, “Grapes of Wrath,” John Steinbeck coined Route 66 the “Mother Road” after the highway opened in 1926. Winding nearly 2,500 miles through eight states, Route 66 connected Chicago to Santa Monica. In New Mexico, the highway had two alignments. From 1926 to 1937, Route 66 passed through Santa Fe County, bringing motorists into New Mexico’s capital city, where they discovered the region’s rich heritage, arts, culture and traditional food in museums, shops, and restaurants, some of which still stand today.

 In 1937, a new alignment took Route 66 out of Santa Fe County on a more direct route from Santa Rosa to Albuquerque, shaving miles off  the highway’s path through New Mexico. The 1937 alignment was built after New Mexico Governor Arthur T. Harnett lost his 1926 re-election bid. Seeking payback, he ordered the construction of a new highway that bypassed the state capital.

A journey on the Santa Fe Loop today is steeped in the mystique of old Route 66 yet also filled with contemporary adventures. Begin by picking up the Santa Fe Loop on US 84 at exit 256 off of I-40, west of Santa Fe Rosa. The road arcs north as it travels through pastoral rolling plains and ranchlands, through quiet towns and historic villages before heading into Santa Fe. Portions of this route parallel the historic Santa Fe Trail, the 19th-century, 900-mile wagon route that connected Independence, Missouri to Santa Fe.

Stretch your legs at Pecos National Historical Park, one of the region’s remarkable treasures. History dates back 7,000 years on this nearly 7,000-acre gem, situated on the original Route 66 about 25 miles southeast of Santa Fe. Explore the ruins of one of the largest pueblos in the Southwest and the remnants of an 18th-century Spanish Mission church. View wagon ruts from the Santa Fe Trail, which passed through the park, then visit a major American Civil War battle site. The Battle of Glorieta Pass, fought in 1862 between Union and Confederate troops, decisively ended the Confederacy’s hopes of preventing the Union from controlling the West. The 2.35-mile Glorieta Battlefield hiking trail brings this past to life with interpretive trail markers indicating Artillery Hill and other significant sites.

Fuel up on American comfort food at Cafe Fina, housed in a former gas station, where original Route 66 travelers once lined up to re-fuel their cars. This bright, bustling eatery serves breakfast and lunch all day. Try signature dishes such as Cloud Cakes and breakfast burritos to start the day, and green chile cheeseburgers, sandwiches and salads for lunch. The bakery’s fresh pies, scones, muffins, and other treats are delicious any time of day. Cafe Fina is a favorite with locals and travelers, who arrive on motorcycles, in RVs, and even on horseback.

Harry’s Roadhouse, also occupying a former gas station, has dazzled diners for decades with fantastic eclectic cuisine and hearty New Mexican fare. A staple with locals and out-of-towners, Harry’s dishes up memorable fare such as smoky St. Louis pork ribs, juicy green chile cheeseburgers and carne asada tacos. The colorful dining rooms and garden patio abloom with seasonal flowers are filled with happy diners. Regulars know to leave room for divine house-made pies, cobblers and cookies and other irresistible desserts.

On a side trip to the historic railroad town of Lamy, you might be tempted to ditch the car and travel by train, instead. Located about eight miles off of Route 66 from Cafe Fina, Lamy seems quiet today. More than a century ago, though, it was a major stop for the Atchison, Topeka & Santa Fe Railroad, boasting a trackside Harvey House hotel, a boisterous saloon, and a 1909 Mission Revival-style train depot. Life slowed down in the town as trains gave way to automobiles, but the Old West springs to life in the Legal Tender Saloon & Eating House, built in 1881. Take a seat at the vintage wooden bar beneath glittering chandeliers or at a table in the dining room with high-flung ceilings. The menu includes pan-seared Ruby trout, house-smoked pork quesadillas and green chile cheeseburgers. Time it right and you can watch the Amtrak’s Southwest Chief arrive at the historic depot located across the street.

Ride the rails yourself on Sky Railway, which offers thrilling train adventures through the magnificent scenery of Santa Fe County. Traveling between Santa Fe and Lamy, Sky Railway entertains passengers with live entertainment, music and more on themed rides such as Sunset Serenade, Speak Easy Express, and Jazz under the Stars.

Cruise Route 66 into downtown Santa Fe and the Santa Fe Plaza, long a stopping point for travelers in search of excellent food, friendly hospitality and a comfortable place to spend the night.

Grab a seat at the soda fountain at the Plaza Café, where sipping a milkshake can conjure up vibes from the 1950s. Santa Fe’s oldest restaurant opened in 1905 and serves New Mexican and American fare in a classic diner overlooking the Plaza, the heart of downtown Santa Fe. Pair your milkshake with an authentic New Mexico green chile cheeseburger and watch the world go by. The cafe is also known for its steak and enchilada combos, crispy, avocado-stuffed tacos and other delectable fare.

La Fonda on the Plaza, the grand dame of Santa Fe hotels, has long been known as “Santa Fe’s Living Room” because locals frequent the historic hotel for live music and great Southwestern food. Built in 1922 in the Spanish Pueblo Revival Style, the hotel was popular with railroad passengers and has been lovingly restored to its Harvey House-era grandeur. From the seasonal Bell Tower Bar on the fifth floor, the sunset views are legendary, enhanced by light fare and refreshing margaritas.

La Fonda’s stately neighbor, the Romanesque-Revival style Cathedral Basilica of St. Francis of Assisi, has towered over the Plaza since the late 1800s. This architectural gem and treasured place of worship, has long been admired by visitors, including Route 66 travelers.

Learn about the state’s multi-layered, multicultural history at the New Mexico History Museum. Interactive exhibits explore the Ancestral Puebloan and Spanish Colonial eras and on through the centuries to the railroad era, Los Alamos and the Manhattan Project, and other fascinating periods. Take a museum-guided walking tour around the Plaza to experience more of Santa Fe County’s intriguing past.

For kitschy souvenirs like retro Route 66 signs, T-shirts, and cowboy hats, duck into the Five & Dime General Store. Located in the building where Woolworth’s stood from 1935 until the chain shuttered its stores in 1997, this store is prized for its aisles of memorabilia as much as for its famous Frito Pie.

Tin-Nee-Ann Trading Co., located on the original Route 66 alignment of Cerrillos Road, opened in 1968. The family-run shop is known for selling authentic Native American jewelry, along with pottery, souvenirs and nostalgia.

The Pink Adobe, on the Old Santa Fe Trail portion of original Route 66, opened its doors in 1944 and is still going strong. Housed in a romantic adobe with vigas and thick white walls, the restaurant offers Cajun and traditional New Mexican fare. The menu still features original dishes such as Steak Dunigan and French apple pie put on the menu by The Pink’s charismatic founder Rosalea Murphy.

An easy detour off of Highway 14/Route 66 leads to El Rancho de las Golondrinas, the premier living history museum of the Southwest. Open June through October, the museum houses more than 30 historic buildings that date from the 1700s to the 1900s. In adobe placitas, log cabins, a schoolhouse and other historic buildings, costumed docents demonstrate blacksmithing, weaving, milling and other traditional trades and skills, bringing New Mexico’s rich heritage and culture to life.

Throughout its season, El Rancho de las Golondrinas hosts annual festivals that are beloved by the community as well as visitors from around the world. The Santa Fe Spring Festival kicks off the season in June with a celebration of traditional New Mexico ranch activities such as sheep shearing, spinning and weaving and a fiber arts marketplace with local artisans and craft makers. July brings New Mexico’s longest-running wine festival, The Santa Fe Wine Festival, followed by the Santa Fe Beer & Food Festival in August. The Santa Fe Renaissance Faire entertains in August, followed by the Santa Fe Harvest Festival in October. The season closes before Halloween with the Spirits of New Mexico, when “ghosts” gather around campfires and lantern lights to share stories of their once colorful lives in New Mexico.

Meet Foxie the Red Fox and Maggie the Bear at Wildlife West Nature Park near the town of Edgewood, located on the post-1937 alignment of Route 66 (off of I-40). More than 20 species of rescued native wildlife live in their natural habitats at this 122-acre wildlife refuge park and enhanced zoo, which also showcases native New Mexican plants. The park hosts annual family-friendly events, including the New Mexico Renaissance Celtic Festival, the Kite Festival, the Wild West Frontier Festival and the Heart of New Mexico Fiber & Art Festival in August. (The zoo is closed during these events.)

Unique places to stay along Route 66 beckon as you travel through Santa Fe County, including the Bobcat Inn, located on the eastern outskirts of Santa Fe. Set on 10 pastoral acres, this bed and breakfast-style inn provides road-weary guests a chance to hike tranquil trails and simply relax in charming outdoor spaces, including a courtyard with a waterfall and koi pond. Work up an appetite on a morning walk for the inn’s hearty breakfasts, including blue corn pancakes and breakfast casseroles. Book the inn’s Route 66-themed guest room, accented with the highway’s iconic emblem, and fill up on nature’s beauty from your private porch, before heading out on the Mother Road.

On the western side of the Santa Fe Loop, where neon-lit motels and motor courts along Cerrillos Road once accommodated Route 66 travelers, two retro motels have been renovated into hip hubs for travelers and locals.

In 1936, El Rey Court opened as a roadside motor inn with just 12 rooms. After renovations by new owners, El Rey is a hot spot for travelers and locals, with 86 rooms, a Swim Club open to guests and locals with a pass, and La Reina bar, a gathering space for cocktails and live music.

A short drive south on Cerrillos Road leads to The Mystic, a stylish motel in the former1950s Western-themed Silver Saddle Motel. Textiles, murals and other art from around the world, and by Native artists, have replaced the cowboy kitsch in the old motel. A cafe serves eclectic fare and craft cocktails and an outdoor venue hosts live music and special events. The 24 vintage rooms include two Route 66 “capsules” outfitted with throwback decor for nostalgia buffs, just like you.

A short drive from Route 66 brings you to Santa Fe County’s world-class lodging, including Bishop’s Lodge, Auberge Resorts Collection – Santa Fe. Settled as a retreat by Archbishop Jean Baptiste Lamy more than 150 years ago, this iconic landmark has been revitalized as a luxury resort. Set against a backdrop of the Santa Fe National Forest, this award-winning destination offers Southwest-style lodging and dining, nature-driven adventures, rejuvenating treatments at Stream Dance Spa, and unique guest experiences that include a pottery or weaving class.

Settle into Four Seasons Resort Rancho Encantado Santa Fe and you won’t want to leave. Nestled against the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, this romantic resort combines luxury and serenity, with Pueblo-inspired casitas and a restaurant renowned for regional flavors blended with global influences. The Spa promotes wellness with healing, relaxing treatments that often feature high desert ingredients. Outdoor adventures offer guided excursions into nature and local history.

Deep sleep awaits at Houses of the Moon at Ten Thousand Waves. Each guest room is inspired by a simple, yet elegant, Japanese ryokan, or traditional inn. Perched in the Sangre de Cristo Mountains, Ten Thousand Waves is modeled after traditional Japanese mountain spas. Soak in an outdoor tub beneath towering pines, and relax with a masterful massage. Savor a delectable dinner of eclectic Japanese bar food and artisanal sake at the acclaimed Izanami Restaurant.

Relax in an oasis of spring-fed thermal pools at Ojo Santa Fe Spa and Resort, located on the road to El Rancho de los Golondrinas. After a massage or another restorative spa treatment, enjoy a blissful stroll along pathways amid enchanting gardens. Follow a delicious dinner at the resort’s Blue Heron Restaurant featuring seasonal, farm- fresh fare with a peaceful night’s sleep in your serene guest room with garden views or a spacious adobe casita.

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